Sensational small trees - trees for container gardening

A single tree growing in a large, handsome container adds a significant grace note to any garden. Carefully placed, it can become a sculptural focal point. It can define an entry or an outdoor living area - or screen one. Place it on a sunny deck or patio and it will obligingly cast shade for you or a cluster of smaller potted plants.

The keys to success are selecting a tree that grows slowly to a manageable size (see "Eight Trees Made for Containers," below), potting it in an ample container, and providing proper long-term care.

A tree in a container is like a bird in a cage: To keep it happy and healthy, you have to provide the right environment. Choose a generous pot that will allow the roots to develop; a 4-foot-tall tree will need a pot at least 20 to 24 inches in diameter and 16 to 24 inches in depth. Plastic and glazed ceramic containers won't crack in freezing weather, and they retain soil moisture much better than unglazed terra-cotta and wood containers.

Fill the container with a high-quality potting mix. Most trees (except pines) benefit from controlled-release fertilizer mixed into the soil at planting time. Use about 1/4 cup of fertilizer for every 5 gallons of potting mix.

A big container filled with soil and a tree is heavy; it will be much easier to move around a deck or patio if you set the pot on a mobile platform with wheels or casters attached to the undercarriage.

Remember that trees in containers need water more frequently than those in the ground. Every three years or so, take the tree out of its container and prune off the large old roots that have coiled around the outside of the rootball. Repot the tree immediately in fresh mix, moving it to a larger container if necessary.

Eight trees made for containers

* Bristlecone pine (Pinus aristata); Sunset climate zones 1-6. Dense, rich green needles on a tree that grows slowly, rarely to more than 20 feet. Nursery-grown stock has a pleasing conical form. Coldhardy and drought-tolerant. One mail-order source is Forestfarm Nursery, 990 Tetherow Rd., Williams, OR 97544; (541) 846-7269 or www.forestfarm.com. Catalog $4; pines from $12.

* Dwarf Alberta spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica'); zones 1-6 and 14-17. This conifer with a pyramidal form and bright green, thickly set needles will reach 7 feet in 35 years. Protect it from hot, drying winds and intense reflected light.

Holly (Ilex); zones vary by species. Glossy evergreen leaves, often with ruffled edges and prickly tips, sparkle in sunlight or rain. A number of small-scale varieties such as I. 'September Gem', I. fargesii, and I. altaclarensis 'Wilsonii' will live for years in containers. One good source for hollies is Heronswood Nursery, 7530 N.E. 288th St., Kingston, WA 98346; (360) 297-4172 or www.heronswood. com. Catalog $5; hollies from $6.

* Japanese maple (Acer palmatum); zones 1-10, 12, 14-24. This delicately scaled deciduous tree comes in many shapes and leaf and bark colors, but most grow slowly and seldom exceed 20 feet in height. For lacy foliage and drooping branches, look for laceleaf Japanese maple (A.p. 'Dissectum'); for deep red foliage and upright form, consider A.p. 'Burgundy Lace'; and for an upright plant with a rounded crown, try A.p. 'Globe'. Give any of them regular water and shelter from intense sunlight.

* Southern magnolia (M. grandiflora 'Little Gem'); zones 4-12, 14-24. This small evergreen magnolia grows slowly to 15 to 20 feet. Leaves are glossy, dark green on the top, covered with bright, rust-colored fuzz underneath. Give it full sun and protection from cold winter winds.

* Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina); zones 1-10, 14-17. This deciduous tree with deeply cut, fernlike leaves grows 15 to 20 feet tall in time. Crimson fruit clusters last all winter atop fuzzy branches that resemble deer antlers. Takes full sun; very drought-tolerant.

* Vine maple (Acer circinatum); zones 1-6, 14-17. This multi-trunked Northwest native adapts well to container culture. Leaves are bright green. Locate it where the sun won't beat down on the trunk.

* Windmill palm (Trachycarpus fortunei); zones 4-24. Hardy to 10 [degrees], this palm grows slowly in a container (in the ground it eventually reaches 30 feet). Fan-shaped leaves 3 feet across are borne on toothed stalks; the trunk is covered with dark brown, hairy-looking fiber.

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Flea Market Treasures

With a little creativity, you can easily turn unlikely objects into objets d’art for your garden by Carol-Ann Granatstein, photos by Mark Burstyn   Dress up an entrance to the backyard with an iron section from a fence or heating grate, easily mounted with screw eyes and wire. Lattice beware! Late-19th-century iron beds were often made with botanical motifs, so they’re an ideal accent for the garden. Transformed into a gate with a few pieces of hardware, an antique headboard helps soften the impact of stark, new fencing, while a footboard blends naturally into the garden as a support for climbers and a backdrop for coneflowers. Glamming up the garden is an easy way to expand your living quarters without bothersome building permits. For instance, hang a picket-framed mirror on a fence or a brick wall. Enhance the look with an iron or marble-topped console table placed below it; a ménage of plants in terra-cotta pots perched on top will complete the tableau. Before adding to the pile in your garage, or worse, the landfill, consider using banished household items in the garden. A favourite piece of china with an unfortunate chip can live on as a plant tray (chip to the back), while a bit of imagination and some simple soldering can transform renovation material such as copper piping into an artful obelisk. Flea markets and garage sales are always well stocked with bargain items calling out to be re-purposed—with the added bonus of being fun destinations for family outings. So stand back, squint your eyes and picture that unloved piece of iron fencing thriving somewhere in the garden. THE FIX IS IN • Before deciding on whether to paint, stain or strip an item, clean it first with a strong cleaner such as TSP (trisodium phosphate). It’s surprising how different objects can look with all the grime and buildup removed. • After cleaning, allow furniture to dry completely before sanding. • Instead of a harsh chemical paint stripper, try one of the gentler, citrus-based formulas that don’t contain methylene chloride. • Exterior paint for metal: There are many on the market available in spray or for paint-on application to seal metal and retard rusting. • To keep antique wicker in good condition, vacuum regularly with a soft-brush attachment and protect it from the elements: sun will dry out the natural fibres while dew, rain and snow will lead to warping. • Marble is porous so it can stain quite easily. Try applying Future, a floor-wax product, as a sealant for marble tables used outdoors. PICKET FENCE MIRROR HOW-TO: Materials & Tools Pickets, mirror, 1/4" plywood, handsaw, tape measure, screwdriver, screws, clear exterior silicone caulking, picture hanger and nails for hanging. Instructions • Cut pickets, rails and stiles to length. The outside dimensions of the finished frame should be about 1" bigger all around than your mirror. • Place pickets face down, position stiles as shown and screw stiles to pickets. • Position rails snugly against top and bottom stile edges and screw to pickets. • Apply a generous bead of silicone around the perimeter of the front of the mirror, staying within 1/4" of the edge. Turn mirror face down and press onto back of frame. • Cut plywood backer board (not shown) to match finished frame size. Screw backer to frame, being careful not to overtighten or damage glass. Attach picture hanger. Technorati Tags : gardening, garden+art, small+garden

 

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